On Thursday, we were up early again, in order to gather,
load, and arrange boarding passes for nineteen pilgrims to fly from Tamale to
Accra. Our departure time from the lovely Hotel Maryam was set for 6:45 am
sharp; once again, all pilgrims made the bell.
At the airport, we waited – surely one of the features common
to all travel. It is a feature common to all pilgrimages, too. When I set out
on this journey, I knew I would learn more about patience, for patience is part
of every pilgrimage. The destination is not the goal; the pilgrimage itself,
the journey itself, is the goal. One does not get there without patience. Last
Saturday, both my flights – from Atlanta and from New York—were delayed
substantially. At JFK, my flight waited on the tarmac for almost two hours and
almost turned around to cancel the entire flight. But I made it. Patience. My
pilgrimage had begun.
So, on Thursday, we got our boarding passes in due time and
proceeded through the security screening process. We knew from our earlier flight
that the Ghanaian security process involves not only the typical x-ray machines
for luggage and person, but also a brief but thorough hands-on frisking.
However, in spite of the awkward frisking, even the security
agents in Ghana display an amazing politeness. I must say that I have never
encountered a more courteous security staff than the one at Tamale airport.
“Good morning,” smiled the man who would search me. “You’re welcome,” he
continued, pre-emptively, “I’m glad you were here.” The woman who had informed
me that I had to take off my shoes had the same manner.
Once I got through, I glanced back and worried that my
colleague Gay Jennings was being delayed somehow. When she got through, I asked
her if everything was alright. “Well,” she said, “when my bag went through, a
buzzer went off and they asked if I had any metal inside.” “Metal?” she
wondered.
Gay Jennings is President of the Episcopal House of
Deputies, and she has been the leader and special guest on our trip. Just after
she was elected, she instituted a special honor for persons who have shown
distinguished service to the House of Deputies and the Episcopal Church: the
House of Deputies Medal. She had brought several along on the trip, to give as
gifts to our host bishops and others.
She didn’t have any “metal” except the metal in her “medals.”
“Could this be the metal (medal) ?” she asked, and she held up the piece. She
began to explain what they were. He held the medal and was curious. “Do you
want one?” Gay continued, clearly being as pre-emptively courteous to the
agents as they were to her. “Yes!” replied the agent happily, and he immediately
placed the medal in his pocket. Gay walked on through, glad that she had
brought some extra medals.
I am glad that that Tamale security agent possesses a House
of Deputies Medal. I believe he has it, by God’s grace, on behalf of all the
courteous Ghanaians we met. (By the way – breaking news flash! – the security
agents at JFK terminal 4, where I arrived back the United States, were just as
courteous as the Ghanaian agents! Hallelujah!)
Apparently, our Thursday flight also carried one of the
local chiefs. As we were waiting in the boarding area, one of his attendants
approached several of us and asked that we either sit down or move a bit away
from the door, for no one was supposed to enter the door, that is to say, exit
the door, on to the tarmac, before the chief. We obliged. The chief was wearing
a beautiful customary smock; and draped over one shoulder, like a sort of
ceremonial kente cloth, was a New England Patriots scarf.
Our intrepid organizer and protector, Vesta, might not agree
that Ghanaians seemed pleasant today. She had had to take on another issue today,
and they do arise. As always, Vesta succeeded, and we all got aboard the flight
with seats. I would follow Vesta to Antarctica; she is the woman who gets
things done.
Once back in Accra, we boarded another bus, and drove another
three hours, down the coast to Cape Castle and Elmina. We had a lovely lunch at
the Elmina Beach Resort Hotel; we would check into our rooms later.
Then we boarded the bus for Elmina Castle.
I hesitate to add my words to so many that have been written
about Elmina Castle – and about the larger Cape Coast Castle, which we would
see on Friday. This was the part of our pilgrimage about which I had done more
preliminary reading. These two places were, for many Africans, the last places
on their home continent they would ever see. The castles contain dungeons,
cells, wretched and horrible holding caverns where slaves spent their last
weeks, chained nakedly and closely together, waiting for the boats that would
take them across the Atlantic Ocean – the Middle Passage, part of the atrocious
Atlantic Slave Trade.
I shouldn’t use the word “waiting.” My sense of their agony
is that they would not have been able to “wait” for anything. “Waiting”
might imply some hope. Their plight looked as close to hopeless as any I have
ever known.
It was probably appropriate that our day was hot and humid.
I was uncomfortable both emotionally and physically down in the dungeons,
hearing first about the female dungeon and situation. We heard how the governor
of the castle would systematically abuse selected women. We walked through the
male dungeons and saw the tiny, tiny outlets for any air or light, often one
tiny “window” per room.
We heard of the squalor, the abuse, the sheer horror of
existence there; again, I hesitate to use the word “life” for what they
experienced there. It was appropriate that we were sweating ourselves: a very,
very small price for us to pay for admission to this holy place.
Was it a holy place? I hesitate to use that word, too.
We walked down the tunnel that would take slaves, both male
and female, to the door of no return. We gathered in that last room and looked
out the iron gate to the ocean. I have often considered a view of the ocean as
a sign of exhilaration and hope; this view, I realized, was one of horror and
dread for outgoing slaves. They probably knew that boat conditions were more devastating
than the dungeon conditions.
As our Episcopal Relief and Development group laid a wreath
in that place, I was the one asked to pray. I had no idea, and I still have
little idea, how to pray in such an agonizing place. We laid the wreath in
honor and in memory of those who had been there before – those who had died
there and those who had passed through. We gathered in the name of remembrance,
for sure. But we also gathered in the name of horror and suffering and pain.
I finally used the word “witness.” Other words might work,
too. But, for me, we were there to witness that place. We must give witness to
it. We must see the truth and acknowledge it, certainly before any effective
restoration and redemption might occur. By “witness,” however, I also mean the
witness of the Africans who died and passed through there; in Greek, the word
for “witness” is “martyr.” The slave castles are places of witness, places of
martyrdom.
But the other word for me is “mercy.” “Lord have mercy,
Christ have mercy, Lord have mercy,” we prayed. Have mercy on the sweet souls
who passed through this place, have mercy on us who witness, have mercy on all
of us who work to overcome unjust conditions in our own time. For, surely, the
effects of that slave trade, and of its associated racism, still exist in our
world today. They exist in my world.
Finally, of course, God might just speak to us in the
silence which we allow ourselves in these places of suffering and tragic
inhumanity. Every word, at some point, fails when I try to describe, or pray
about, humanity’s inhumanity to others. Every word falls short, at some point.
But, yes, I do believe the place is holy. Elmina and Cape
Coast Castles are both holy, sacred places of pilgrimage for those who must
give witness. Indeed, holiness must exist in places where human beings have
suffered. It is a tragic part of our human history; and, if God is not present
in suffering, then God is not present anywhere. Again, if God is not present in
human suffering, then God is not present anywhere.
Sweet and healthy human beings suffered agonizingly at
Elmina and at Cape Coast; they must be holy places. When words fail, all I have
left is God. Even if it is the silence of God.
Later on Thursday, I had good conversations with several of my
colleagues about Elmina Castle, about the systems of racism and of privilege
that still exist in the United States, too. Other colleagues had similar
conversations. Thursday, visiting Elmina Castle, was a holy day.
Reading this was as though I was present in that tortuous place, absorbing the heat and anguish of the very walls.
ReplyDeleteVery moving. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the comments. It's risky to use words at all. Lord have mercy.
ReplyDeleteI hope to visit Elmina Castle in October, Sam. Your words of description are helpful as I prepare for this journey
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If you are facing a skin-related problem such as uneven skin tone, blemishes, acne marks, spots, discoloration, or skin tags then it could be due to many reasons which cannot be avoided easily. Mostly the reasons include the environment we live in, bacteria, sun rays, reaction or allergy to any food or medicine. The blemished skin spoils the overall appearance and shatters the confidence.
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